There’s something truly magical about the Peak District. Whether it’s the way the mist clings to the limestone dales in the morning or the golden glow of a sunset over the rolling white peaks, it never fails to recharge our batteries. Last December we hitched up our Coachman Acadia 565 and headed to Hartington Hills Caravan Park for a trip that was the perfect blend of adventure, geological wonders, and some seriously good food.
For those of you who follow our travels, you know we love a good basecamp. Hartington is one of those quintessential English villages that feels like it’s been plucked straight from a postcard. We stayed from Boxing Day right through to the New Year, and it made a brilliant festive base for exploring the Derbyshire Dales. As we settled into our pitch, we knew we were in for a treat.
Hartington Hills campsite really is fantastic too: peaceful, well-kept, and perfectly placed for getting out on foot while still feeling like a proper relaxing getaway. The owners were friendly and super helpful throughout our stay, which always makes a big difference when you arrive over the festive period. The bathroom facilities were excellent as well, with underfloor heating that was very welcome on those cold winter mornings. Add in the fantastic views across the surrounding Derbyshire countryside and the site’s great location just outside Hartington, and it really is a brilliant base for exploring this part of the Peak District.
Waking Up in the Hartington Hills
If you’ve ever stayed in this part of the world, you’ll know that the scenery is the star of the show. We’ve previously written about waking up above the clouds in the Hartington Hills, and this trip was no different. The village itself is famous for its cheese shop (a must-visit for any self-respecting caravanner), but the real draw is the walking.
We spent our first morning tackling the "Dales of the River Dove" walk. It’s a classic for a reason. Starting in the village, the path leads you down into Beresford Dale and then into the more dramatic Wolfscote Dale. The limestone cliffs tower above you, and the River Dove sparkles as it winds through the valley floor. Keep an eye out for dippers and buzzards; we were lucky enough to spot a few soaring high above the crags.
The terrain can be a bit tricky: limestone is notoriously slippery when wet: but the views are worth every cautious step. There’s a particular spot at Pike Pool where a limestone column rises right out of the water, looking like something from a fantasy novel. It’s these little details that make the Peak District so special.
Into the Depths: The Blue John Mines
No trip to this area is complete without a visit to the mines. Blue John is one of the rarest minerals in the world, and it’s found right here in the Peak District, specifically near Castleton. It was discovered nearly 2,000 years ago by the Romans, and its name is said to come from the French "bleu-jaune" (blue-yellow).
We made the short drive over to the Blue John Cavern (though Treak Cliff Cavern is just as impressive). Descending into the earth is always a surreal experience. The temperature underground stays a constant 10°C, which felt quite refreshing after a morning of hiking!
The guided tour is fantastic. You walk through narrow passages and massive natural chambers, seeing the veins of deep purple, blue, and yellow mineral still embedded in the rock. Seeing how it was mined historically: and how it’s still carefully extracted today for jewellery: is fascinating. If you’re visiting with kids (or you’re just a big kid yourself), the geology and the sheer scale of the caverns are mind-blowing. Just be prepared for the steps; there are quite a few of them on the way back up!
A Sunday Feast at the Black Lion Inn, Butterton
After a day of exploring caves and climbing hills, there is only one way to round off a Sunday: a proper roast. We headed over to the nearby village of Butterton to visit the Black Lion Inn.
Butterton is a hidden gem in itself, with its famous "ford" running right down the main street. The Black Lion is everything you want in a country pub: stone walls, roaring fires, and a warm welcome. We’d heard great things about their Sunday roast, and let me tell you, it did not disappoint.
I opted for the roast beef, which was cooked to perfection: tender, pink, and sliced thick. The star, however, might have been the Yorkshire pudding. It was absolutely massive and acted like a bowl for the rich, delicious gravy. Accompanied by honey-glazed carrots, braised cabbage, and some of the best roast potatoes we’ve had in a long time, it was the definition of "comfort food."
The atmosphere in the pub was buzzing but relaxed. It’s the kind of place where you can sit for hours, nursing a pint of local ale and chatting about the day's adventures. If you’re planning a visit, definitely book ahead, as it’s a popular spot for locals and hikers alike.
Family Ties and Caravan Flexibility
One of the main reasons we chose the Hartington area for this trip was to visit some family who live nearby. This is where the caravan lifestyle really shines. We were able to have our own space, our own bed (the Acadia 565's beds are incredibly comfy), and all our home comforts, while still being just a ten-minute drive from the family.
We spent a lovely afternoon catching up, showing off our latest caravan upgrades, and planning our next group trip. There’s something so grounding about being able to travel "with your house" and still maintain those close connections. Whether we're crossing the Channel or just heading an hour down the road, the flexibility is unbeatable.
Final Thoughts on Hartington
The Hartington Hills area remains one of our absolute favourite spots in the UK. It offers that rare combination of rugged natural beauty, fascinating history, and top-tier hospitality. Whether you're descending into the depths of a Blue John mine or conquering the heights of Wolfscote Dale, there's an adventure waiting around every corner.
If you're heading that way, don't forget to pack your walking boots, a warm jacket for the caves, and a very healthy appetite for the Black Lion Inn.
Are you planning a trip to the Peaks soon? Or maybe you have a favourite hidden pub we should check out? Let us know in the comments below! We’re always looking for new spots to park the Acadia and explore.
Looking for more Peak District inspiration? Check out our review of the Coachman Acadia 565 setup or find out why we love Field's End Water for a peaceful getaway.
