Most caravan problems have a simple cause. This guide shows the safe first checks for common faults, and when to stop and call a qualified engineer.
Caravan problems happen to every tourer. A fridge stops cooling, the hook-up trips or the taps run dry. Fortunately, most faults come down to a setting, a connection or a flat battery.
This page groups the most common problems by area. For each one, it gives the safe first checks, then links to the full guide for more detail.
However, some jobs are never DIY. Gas faults, mains electrics and serious damp all need a qualified engineer. So if a check doesn’t fix it, stop there and get help.
Smell gas? Turn off the gas at the bottle and put out any flames. Avoid switches, open the doors and windows, and get everyone outside. Then call a qualified gas engineer before using it again.
Also, fit a working smoke alarm and carbon monoxide alarm, and test them before every trip. The caravan fire safety guide explains more.
Hook-up, battery and fridge faults are the most common caravan problems of all.
Kettles and heaters are the usual cause. So switch some appliances off, reset the bollard switch, then restart the caravan electrics. Most UK sites offer 10A or 16A, and older sites struggle when everyone runs heaters.
Dim lights, a weak motor mover or fast voltage drops after charging are the warning signs. First, check the terminals for corrosion or loose connections. If it still struggles after a full charge, it probably needs replacing.
Check you’ve chosen the right power source, the hook-up works and the vents are clear. Also, check the caravan is level. Remember, 12V only keeps a cold fridge cold while towing. It can’t cool a warm one.
No water, low pressure and leaks usually start at the hose, the pump or a fitting.
Check the Aquaroll isn’t empty and every hose fitting is tight. Next, look for sharp bends in the hose, airlocks or a dirty filter. These simple checks solve most water problems.
The pump may not be priming, or it may be running dry. So check the water level, the hose connection and the fuse. Keep the pump clean, and never let it run without water.
Leaks usually come from loose or wrong fittings. On a mains water connection, use a pressure regulator, as too much pressure can damage the plumbing. However, water inside the walls or floor needs a professional check.
Smells usually mean the cassette needs emptying, the seals need cleaning, or the chemical needs topping up. So empty it regularly, rinse it well and keep the seals clean and lubricated.
Moisture is the biggest long-term threat to any caravan. So spot it early.
Wet windows each morning, damp bedding and musty cupboards are classic signs. The fix is ventilation. Keep roof vents open, don’t block fixed vents and keep a low, steady heat overnight.
Soft wall panels, wet patches, staining and high moisture readings point to water getting in, not condensation. If problems continue despite good ventilation, book a professional damp inspection.
A springy patch near the door, walkway or kitchen may be delamination. However, rule out water first. A dry, small patch can often be re-bonded, while rot needs a specialist.
Cracked, stiff or leaking rooflights let water in and add to condensation. So check them for cracks and worn seals each season, and replace a damaged one rather than taping it.
Check the simple things first. Then leave anything gas-related to a qualified engineer.
First, check the gas bottle isn’t empty and the regulator is on. On electric, check the hook-up and the switch. Also, make sure the outside flue and vents aren’t blocked.
Check there’s gas in the bottle and the valve is open. Then check the igniter battery, if it has one. If the burner still won’t light, stop and ask a qualified engineer.
Heating uses far more gas in cold weather. In addition, butane struggles in the cold, so switch to propane for winter touring, and carry a spare bottle.
Caravan tyres usually age out long before they wear out. So check them before every trip.
Caravan tyres often look fine but have aged inside. Most makers suggest replacing them at five to seven years old, whatever the tread. So check the date code on the sidewall.
Under-inflated tyres overheat and wear unevenly. So check the pressures cold, before you set off, using the figure in your caravan handbook.
Ease off the accelerator gently, and keep the steering straight. Never brake hard or speed up. Afterwards, check the loading and nose weight before you carry on.
Simple checks are fine for anyone. However, stop and call a qualified engineer if:
Also, check your warranty first. A DIY repair can sometimes affect it, especially on newer caravans. Keep photos, reports and receipts too, as they help with warranty, insurance and resale.
Most caravan problems are cheaper to prevent than to fix. A yearly habitation check finds damp, gas and electrical faults early. Then a service keeps the running gear safe.
Before every trip, run through a quick safety check of tyres, lights, hitch and breakaway cable. Finally, store the caravan carefully over winter, with the water drained and the battery charged.
Usually, too many high-power appliances are running at once, like a kettle and a heater. Switch some off, then reset the bollard switch. The hook-up guide explains more.
12V only keeps an already cold fridge cold while towing. So chill it on mains or gas before you set off.
No. Condensation comes from moisture inside, such as breathing and cooking. Damp means water is getting in from outside. So if problems continue despite good ventilation, get a damp check.
It won’t hold charge for long, the lights dim quickly, or the motor mover feels weak. If that continues after a proper charge, it probably needs replacing.
No. You can check the bottle, valve and regulator. However, any repair to gas pipes or appliances needs a qualified engineer.
Book a yearly habitation check and service, and check tyres and lights before every trip. The Caravan Maintenance guide covers the rest.
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